My Wanderings in Persia

by T. S. Anderson

London: James Blackwood and Co., 1880

single page

chapter 1

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MY WANDERINGS
IN PERSIA.

BY T. S. ANDERSON.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, AND MAP SHOWING THE
SCIENTIFIC FRONTIER IN AFGHANISTAN, AND
THE RUSSIAN ADVANCE IN CENTRAL ASIA.

LONDON:
JAMES BLACKWOOD & CO., LOVELL’S COURT,
PATERNOSTER ROW.
1880.

[All Rights Reserved.}

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Dedication

TO THE MEMORY OF
AN AFFECTIONATE AND DEEPLY-LAMENTED SISTER
WHOSE NAME WILL EVER BE FONDLY CHERISHED,

AND ALSO TO ONE
WHOSE LOVE I GREATLY PRIZE,
IS THIS WORK MOST AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
BY THE AUTHOR.

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[page vii]

PREFACE.

HAD I chosen a different title for my notes, I should have decided upon ‘Persia as it is.’ I have endeavoured carefully, and at the same time to interestingly delineate the chief characteristics of the modern Persians, both historically and nationally; proving, at the same time, the great similarity which yet exists between the ancient and more modern manners, customs, etc., and also the painfully evident deterioration which has taken place since the time of the Persian Empire’s greatness.

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[page viii]

The routes throughout Persia have also received some attention in their description, etc.

My roughly written notes may prove of some interest to those students of Eastern affairs who acknowledge the position in which Persia is placed. Should it afford such service to them, or a source of interest to any portion of the English community who may in some degree be concerned in Eastern affairs, they will have more than accomplished the writer’s desire.

T. S. Anderson.
Sheffield, August, 1879.

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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Eastward Bound. — At Southampton. — Victims to Neptune. — P. and O. Berths.— Storm at Sea. — Gibraltar. — Acquaintance Aboard Ship. — Malta and its Churches. — Religion. — Alexandria, its Ruins. — The Suez Canal; Previous Attempts at its Construction	9
CHAPTER II.
Ancient Assyrian Road. — Rameses. — Bubastis. — Cairo. — The Pyramids. — Aden and the Arabs. — Bombay. — The Kinship of the World. — Towers of Silence. — Caste. — Kurrachee. — An Eastern Wedding. — Attack by Arab Pirates. — Bushire and British Influence	24
CHAPTER III.
Native Craftiness. — Modes of travelling in Persia. — 'Kajava and Takhtravan.' — 'Chaparing.' — Anything your heart may desire. — Leaving Bushire. — Ahmedy. — Caravanserais. — Borasjoon. — Anglo-Persian Battlefield. — Women Soldiers. — Daliki. — Blood-feuds. — Robber-guards. — Kazeroon Orange-groves. — The Maiden and Old Woman Passes. — Dashtarjin. — The Lion Haunt. — Sergt.-Major Collins.— Shiraz	37
CHAPTER IV.
Shiraz. — Sanitary arrangements. — Nomadic Tribes. — Persian Education and Virtues. — Religion. — 'Hajee.' — Advent of the Moslem Prophet. — Origin of Islamism. — Sunnies' and Shahies' Disputes. — Climate of Persia. — Products. — Garden-parties. — Persian Dinner-parties. — Lack of Female Society	62
CHAPTER V.
Condition and Habits of Persian Women. — Results of Polygamy. — Royal Contentions. — Assumption of Nasir-i-Din. — '0n the Road.' — Intense Cold of December. — Severe Snowstorms. — Footprints of a lion. — Arrival of Visitors. — Native Life in Winter. — Miserable Condition of Peasants. — Village Magistrate's House. — Sevund.— Attacked by Fever. — Leave of Absence. — Yezd. - Persian Immorality	83
CHAPTER VI.
[Passing mention of the Bábís] — Fazir Ali Shah.— Persian Justice and Impalement. — Buried Alive. — Execution of Soldiers. — Imperial Rage. — Mutilation. — Despotic Tyranny. — Inspecting Telegraph-Line. — The Abode of the Wind. — 'Samovar.' — Dehbeed. — Sport. — Misfortunes. — Lost on the Plain. — Camping in the Snow. — Fears of my Caravan. — Attacked by a Liliputian Army. — Sons of Dogs. — Shiraz. — Solitary Existence	107
CHAPTER VII.
Christmas-day. — Severity of the Winter. - Cause of Famine. — Orders to Leave. — The Seal. — Written Agreements. — Controversy. — 'Yallah!' — En route. — Zergoon. — Protectionists. — Persepolis. — Saidoon. — Old Friends. — Caravan Looted. — Compensation. — Tomb of King Cyrus. — Morghaub. — Ruins of Pasargadae	134
CHAPTER VIII.
An Escort. — Sport. —Execution. — Wolves. — 'Burnt Father.' — Hunting by Candlelight. — Eternal Friendship. — Yezdicast. — Fashionable Visitors. — Subterranean Exploration. — Obnoxious Smells. — Chlorodyne. — Courier. — Koomeshah. — Bereavement. — Myer. — Ispahan. — Guana. — Half the World. — 'Good-morning, Sir.' — Missionary	160
CHAPTER IX.
National Decay. — Inoffensive Ooroos. — Zinderood. — Festivities. — Moharrum. — Alas, Hossein! — Bottled Tears. — God is Great. — Gathering Manna. — Moochikhor Plain. — Bolting. — Accident. — Imaum Zada. — Sacred Fish. — Kohrood. — Industrious Villagers. — Swiss Scenery. — Smelling the Desert. — Kashan. — Scorpions. — Duped. — 'What Pushed it Along.' — Tragedy	182
CHAPTER X.
Koom. — Holy Shrines. — Barber's Bridge. — Ill-famed Winds. — The King's Well. — The Valley of the Shadow of Death. — Turkestan Deserts. — Kinarigird. — Distinguished Arrivals. — Prompt Action. — Bone of Contention. — Demavend. — Friends. —Teheran. — Rumours. — Fifteenth Century Waggons. — Government Caravanserai. — Gulahek. — Medical Practitioners. — An Outcast	204
CHAPTER XI.
Teheran Fortifications. — Rhages. — Pretensions. — Hussein Khan. — Military Review! — Two to One. — Summary Punishment. — Mission Guards. — Baron Reuter's Contract. — Russian Intrigues. — Railways. — Eastern Opinions. — England and Russia. — Party Factions. — Leave of Absence. — Sulphuric Springs. — Prevention and Cure. — Vapours. — Perplexing Dilemma. — Torn and Wounded	225
CHAPTER XII.
Lost. — Turcomans. — Russian Atrocities. — Left-hand Friendship. — Premier Lord. — 'Sons of Burnt Fathers.' — Marvellous. — Tiger Hunt — At Bay. — 'Non est.' — 'Shadow of God.' — Satisfied Grunt. — Wretched Road. — Teheran. — 115° Fahrenheit. — Phenomena. — Distress. — Turkey. — Sick Man. — National Reforms. — Millennium	246
CHAPTER XIII.
European Humours. — Passport. — Bon Voyage. — Persian Promises. — Golden Globe. — Amusing Pastime. — Departure from Teheran. — Homeward Bound. — Animal Stupidity. — Morning Meal. — Casvin. — Religious Fervour. — Imaginary Obstacles. — Salaam Aleikum. — Persian Falsity. — Menjeel. — Surfeit Rood. — Alone in a Forest. — 'Kurak, Kurak.' — Stiffened by Cold.— Kudoom	271
CHAPTER XIV.
Glorious Sunrise. — Eden. — Resht. — Storehouses. — Pir-i-Bazaar. — Priestly Blessing. — Jolting. — Disappointment. — 'Inglice neest oorus ast.' - Robinson Crusoe. — Inshallah! — The 'Alexandrovna.' — Sakutschky. — Baku. — Quarantine. — Russian Civility. — Disgusting Hovels. — 'Torn Canvas.' — Disinfected Clothing. — Pitiable Plight. — Cleanliness. — Emancipation Day. — Again en route	299
CHAPTER XV.
Aboard the Marie. — Derbend. — Deplorable Sights. — Autocracy.— Vatki. — Russian Policy. — 'I am a Pole.' — Nihilism. — Freedom. — Bulgarian Champions. — Astrachan. — Imperial Escorts. — 'Niet, Niet.' — Volga. — Tartars. — Saratova. — Nijni. — The Fair. — Bargains. — Tariff Rates. — Railway Locomotion. — Preparing to Alight. — Moscow. — Russian Jehus	321
CHAPTER XVI.
Moscow. — Kremlin. — Image-worship. — 'Sweetest of Companions.' — Paganism versus Russianism. — St. Basil. — St. Petersburg. — Newski Prospect. — Winter Palace. — St. Isaac's. — Irreverence. — Abrupt Departure from the Capital. — War Imminent. — Slaves. — Poland. — Fertility of Soil. — Warsaw. — 'Are you an Englishman!' — Berlin. — Column of Victory. — Paris. — Exhibition. — Calais. — Midnight Voyage. — 'Land Ahead.' — The White Cliffs. — Home, sweet Home. — Charing Cross. — Finis	344
Appendix
Tables of Stages and Distances — Bushir to Teheran. — Teheran to Baghdad. — Teheran to Resht.	362

single page

chapter 1